Crested Gecko Diet

In this article we will briefly review the basic requirements of most reptiles give you a basic knowledge of reptile husbandry prior research on the species you are interested in. A small number of subjects such as feeding were excluded because of the wide variation between species.

HEATING
This is universal with almost all reptiles in captivity in the United Kingdom. Our climate does not support many species of native reptiles from snakes to slow worms, but the species commonly kept as pets are normally warmer climates and heating is needed in order. But this is not a simple matter to keep the vivarium to a radiator!

All reptiles are cold-blooded and they can not control their body temperature independently in their environment as we do. The only way they can have some control over their body temperature is to move from hot areas to cool areas, and vice versa. We therefore need to provide a temperature gradient. This is done by heating one side of the vivarium to create a hot spot and leaving the other side relatively cool. The necessary temperatures on hot spots and cool end varies from one species to whether this should be studied.

Methods of heating
There are several methods that can be used to create the temperature gradient in the vivarium. By far the most popular species for beginners is a heat mat base. A heat mat is an electrically thin that you can place in the vivarium or in some cases it may be adjusted on the side of the vivarium (be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions). A heat mat is expected to cover about one third of the surface on one side of the vivarium. Heat mats are one of the lowest powered heating methods for reptiles and therefore only suitable for species in more temperate regions such as corn snakes.

The temperature of the water temperature may be controlled using an inexpensive piece of equipment called stat mat (a type of thermostat adapted for heat mat). There are several brands of thermostats that are designed specifically for reptile heating equipment. A thermostat is also an important element of safety equipment that prevents excessive heat build up on the warm side.

Another method of heating is with a spotlight bulb on the ceiling of the vivarium, which is controlled by a thermostat graduation. Dimming thermostats to monitor temperatures in the vivarium and to reduce or increase the power being supplied to the bulb so as to regulate the temperature in the vivarium. This method can be much more powerful than heat pads and can provide higher temperatures. In addition, it can be used to create a place where a pilgrim heat mat can not do. In nature, many reptiles bask in the sun for warmth and therefore this heating method encourages natural behavior for many days active lizards like bearded dragons. A red spot bulb can also be used at night for most reptiles as most can not see the color red.

Due to high surface temperatures of the bulbs up, a guard around the bulb is absolutely essential to prevent your reptiles to burn.

Another alternative is a ceramic bulb that emits only infrared and no visible light. This is ideal if you want to keep the terrarium in your room so that light does not bother you. It is also better suited for reptiles that require exceptionally high temperatures that ceramic bulbs come up to a power of 250W or more in some cases.

ceramic lamps can be controlled with a thermostat dimming, if a cheaper alternative is a pulse proportional thermostat that keeps turning the bulb on and off to maintain the required temperature. If a pulse proportional thermostat should be used with a light bulb filament burn spot it very quickly and you will be constantly changing a light bulb. Ceramic bulbs on the other.